After a couple of seasons where the fashion focus was on hybrid shows or digital presentations, London Fashion Week wrapped today after a full-on IRL experience. Despite the storms threatening to dampen the vibe, the chicest street-style stars were out in force and actual catwalk shows filled the days with TikTok’s finest taking their seats in the frow (hey Abby Roberts!), LFW is back, baby.
The overarching message from designers? Autumn 2022 will be vibrant, bold and buzzy. Going Out Out clothes ruled the runways, just like they did in New York, but the pandemic’s enforced breathing space has allowed new stars to shine and take up space.
Three of GLAMOUR’s favourites are making waves and it’s no coincidence they are all women designers, focused on creating the most inclusive catwalk casting we’ve seen for years. Representation is a powerful tool and seeing women like Victoria’s Secret VS Collective member Paloma Elsesser booked and busy is a step in the right direction for fashion industry body inclusivity.
Nensi Dojaka is known for her filmy slips of chiffon attached with floss-like ties which have garnered fans including Zendaya, Rihanna and Dua Lipa. While there were plenty of Dojaka’s signature sexy dresses, she bought balance and substance to the show by including slick tailored trouser suits and jackets, while casting Paloma and pregnant model Maggie Maurer to walk.
Likewise, Supriya Lele works with fashion’s current obsession with cut-away details, sheer fabrics and body-con silhouettes. On the catwalk, Paloma stunned in a cloud blue chiffon tee and chocolate brown satin mini-skirt. We were drooling. Victoria Beckham showed up for the show too and we love to see other female designers bringing their support!
It was also Priya Ahluwalia’s first catwalk show and damn, did she bring it. GLAMOUR has tracked the ascent of the London-born designer throughout her career. Priya’s principles of sustainability run through every collection and she consistently uses upcycled deadstock, yarn and denim in a way that bely their former lives. The clothes were upbeat and energetic and were inspired by Nollywood and Bollywood films, echoing Priya’s dual Nigerian-Indian heritage. By looking at fashion through the non-white, non-Western lens of those cinematic moments, the designer centred the experiences of POC people through her collection. In an industry that seems like it can’t stop itself from culturally appropriating, Priya’s approach is of epic importance. On her Instagram page, Priya commented, “For me, representation is vital for the self esteem of Black and Brown people and I aim to help progress this with all of the work I do, both on the runway and behind the scenes.”
If anyone says that fashion is frivolous, we urge them to look at these three women’s ground-breaking work at London Fashion Week, which will surely change their minds. It’s never ‘just’ a dress.
Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton
